Grand Manan Island New Brunswick - Island Life in the Bay of Fundy
Grand Manan Island, off the coast of New Brunswick, lies on the border between the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of Maine. It's off the beaten track, which is precisely why it's still a real insider tip. Immediately after stepping off the ferry that connects the island to Blacks Harbor on the mainland, you notice that things move differently here. The few cars that leave the ferry quickly disappear. Then we practically have the main road to ourselves. It's the only road that crosses the entire island from north to south. Only occasionally do we encounter another vehicle or a bicycle. The residents of Grand Manan Island are clearly not used to rushing around.
Upon our arrival, we learned that the sea rules the roost on this island. We had actually planned to go whale watching by sailboat. However, we learned that the wind was too strong and the sea too rough today. Therefore, the boats were staying in the harbor. Whitecaps on the waves confirmed this. I'm actually glad to have more time to explore the island. I don't have to struggle with seasickness.
The Swallow Tail Lighthouse on Grand Manan Island
The Swallow Tail Lighthouse, north of North Head, watches over the harbor entrance. We watch the ferry return to the mainland. In the small bay of Pettes Cove, which separates the lighthouse from the island's main town, we can see fish traps. These are where the island fishermen catch their fish. Small boats along the shore wait for calmer seas. Only when the waves are lower can their owners go out to haul in their catch. We, on the other hand, welcome the cooling breeze. We let the wind blow around our faces and walk along the narrow path over to the lighthouse, from where we have a wonderful view of the Bay of Fundy.
Lobster fishing on Grand Manan Island
That fish aren't the only prey for island fishermen is evident in Castalia. There, we see numerous lobster cages stacked up next to fishing lines. The modern lobster traps made of metal wire glow yellow and green. It's a real shame that the old wooden traps are disappearing more and more. The fishermen had made them themselves during the winter months. However, the new cages are constructed according to the same principle. They consist of two areas – the "kitchen" and the "living room." These are two compartments into which the lobsters are lured. The lobsters, hunting for the bait laid out in the "living room," first enter the "kitchen" through a funnel-shaped net. Then they pass through another funnel-shaped net into the "living room." Once they reach the bait, they are trapped. With their bulky claws, they can no longer escape the trap the same way they entered.
Seal Cove is worth seeing
Seal Cove, a fishing village that has barely changed since the 19th century, is particularly beautiful. Time seems to have stood still here. Wooden fishing sheds stand on wooden posts in the water. Dozens of seagulls warm themselves in the sun on their roofs. Bumblebee traps – both modern and traditional – lie along the paths between the buildings. A few children play with kittens on the walls of the houses. One of the buildings is set up as a kind of museum – you just walk in. There is no admission charge. We see how fish was once smoked in such shacks. Above our heads is a tangle of wooden poles from which the filleted fish halves were hung. In the center of the building, you can see the fireplace, from which thick smoke rose. This preserved the fish halves.
The wooden pillars, on which the fishing sheds rise above the water, look fragile, and the windows are no longer all complete. This is a strange vehicle in the water, which looks like a slightly too big a bathtub, but - as our companion Darrell assures us - is quite seaworthy and was used for trips in the harbor bay.
Fishing nets hang decoratively to dry on the shingled walls of Seal Cove's fishing sheds. Elsewhere, we see buoys whose distinct colors are barely distinguishable. But we learn that these color samples belonged to certain fishing families. This allowed them to identify what their lobster traps were attached to. This was important when hauling them up from the depths of the sea.
The southern tip of Grand Manan Island
At the southern tip of the island, we get a glimpse of the cliffs, which can reach up to 100 meters in height. These extend northward along the entire west side of the island. This is also the reason why Grand Manan Island is primarily populated on its east side. The west coast, on the other hand, offers no easy access to the sea. The winds here frequently cause stormy weather. There is only one road leading to the west coast. This leads to a seaweed farm and a small holiday village primarily used by locals.
A visit to Grand Manan Island is definitely a good option for a trip through Canada's Atlantic provinces. The ferry from Blacks Harbor to North Head cannot be reserved. It's a first-come, first-served affair. You only pay on the return trip. We also recommend purchasing your ticket immediately upon arrival on the island. This way, you can reserve a seat on the return ferry.
You can find more information about the island here:
Travel Arrangements:
Parking at the airport
Here you can reserve your parking space at the airport.
Arrival:
Air Canada, Condor and Icelandair fly from Germany to various airports in eastern Canada.
Car Rentals:
Cheap car hire - book quickly and easily!
Hotels:
Hotels on Grand Manan Island * (Advertisement) not far from Cape Enrage you can book, for example, through our partner booking.com.
Do you know this?
- Most beautiful lighthouses of the Lighthouse Route
- New Brunswick Canada on the Atlantic
- Peggy's Cove: Nova Scotia's most beautiful lighthouse
- Hiking at the Fundy Trail Parkway
- Cape Enrage: lighthouse, cliffs and sea
- Buying a hiking backpack – what you should know before you buy it
- Ottawa Winterlude
- Ottawa Winterlude hotels
Slow Travel Tips you can find it here, for example.
Sources: On-site research. We thank Tourism New Brunswick and the Canadian Tourism Commission for their support. However, our opinions remain, as always, our own.
Text: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
Photos: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
Video: © Copyright Petar Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
